Zygopetalum repotting question

I have a zygopetalum that is growing in a straight line with it reaching the limits of a 7 inch pot. Now that new growth is occuring, I would like to know how I should repot it. Can I divide it and put the back bulbs in another pot and start a new plant? Should it be tightly potted? It dropped its leaves when I repotted a couple of years ago and hasn't bloomed since. Now I am growing it under lights inside all year. Temps are typically 75 during the day and 62 at night with 60% humidity.

I would included pictures, but this site gives me an error message only stating that there was an error in loading the image. Odd, since it is a jpeg file and I compressed it to only 2 mb Open to suggestions on both issues.

 

Thanks Marni. My file sizes are typically around 21mb, and I had compressed it with Fastone viewer down to 2mb. After your note, I resized them maintaining the same aspect ratio. I have photoshop and lightroom, but for a very nice viewer that does quick and easy editing with RAW files without a converter, it is a great program and its free!

 

I wasn't aware that there would be that much flexibility. I would assume it will require some wire or something to maintain it in that position. What potting medium mix would you use? Usually don' t use sphagmum, but have seen that recommended for zygopetalums.

 

I have now repotted it. The roots had not significantly expanded into the prior medium, but overall looked fine. Not many dead or rotted segments. I have been overly cautious with watering and finding my way back to more watering due to some rot problems with other plants. The leaves on it are just now turning greener and had been very yellow with lots of spots on them. Compared to a grower's plants that are healthy appearing, I would say mine is on the mend. I have increased air flow to the growing area and everyone looks happier. As far as light goes, all my plants are under lights indoors all year. Presently I have been using MSU formula fertilizer on the weak side every week, except the fourth week , just water. Obviously this plant has been stressed, but I didn't want it to rot, but more water looks like the ticket. My phals are in great shape, so if that is the barometer for light intensity, then that is what this plant is getting also.

Any other suggestions?

 

I'm certainly now expert. It still looks like a large pot, but it is much smaller. This is the smallest pot I could squeeze the plant and the roots into. I have bloomed it prior for a few years, but it dropped most of the leaves a year ago and I had repotted it then. The mix is what I saw from various growers online. Time will tell if I have it right, but I think it will be fine. The new growth looks good and the roots were healthy. Last year I didn't have much time to watch it as closely. Air movement is good for it.

Good luck in your learning. We are all learning. Anyone who denies it is kidding themselves.

 

That would be "no" expert. Sorry, I just now saw the typo.

 

I did not realize that it was a terrestrial. Dummy me, I assumed it was an epiphyte as most sites stated to let it be "almost dry in the center" before watering again. I have been swamped with work and did not have a plastic pot in the proper size. I had purchased some "orchid pots" at a nursery some time ago and they have vertical slots for drainage on the side in addition to the bottom. I figured that would work fine. Being in the Northwest, I assumed everything stays too soggy and was concerned about overwatering and rot or fungus growth. I think I must have some improper perceptions about how much to water. I have now found a similar sized plastic pot and repotted it. Thanks for the help again.

 

I notice that your leaves on this plant are uniformly green, no spots. I was told that if the plants get too much light, they will get the spots, but that they needed that much light to flower. After looking at yours, I would say that both of those statements are false due to the nice flowers and no spots.