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Phragmipedium

Discussion in 'Issues, Disease and Pests' started by leeflea, Nov 24, 2012.

  1. leeflea

    leeflea New Member

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    Location:
    N.E. MS
    I have a Phrag. Mem. Dick Clements (besseae x flavum sargentianum 'Birchwood') which bloomed a few weeks ago. It's planted in Orchiata (I'm not affiliated with Orchita in any way other than I use it). The bloom lasted about 2-3 weeks.
    Now, the bottom portion of the 'trunk' is turning much lighter than the rest of the plant. I'd not be surprised if I lost it but am trying to figure out why.
    In order to reduce stress on it, I cut off the bloom stalk, took it out of the pot, cut off the dead roots and re-potted it, again, in Orchiata mainly because that was all I had as a medium.
    It is in a S-S/W facing window with a sheer curtain at the window.
    I water it twice a week and give it a plant food with extra Cal/Mag and now since it's Fall, I'll start feeding it only once a month.
    I had had a besseae a few years ago which I kept sitting in saucer of water as recommended by the grower but didn't attempt to do that this time as the besseae turned pale, the leaves became spotted, and it died
    Might someone be kind enough to help me with this situation? I'd post a pic. of it but my photo sharing program isn't recognizing my camera.
    Thank you,
    Leeflea.
     
  2. oisifml

    oisifml Active Member

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    Location:
    Maisons Laffitte France.
    I am no expert on phrags, but as no one seems to respond I would say I had the same problems as you once and it was due to the legend that they "love sitting on water" I am not sure they do... at least not here with me.
    I got better results with plants in bark; mixing medium and fine bark and very little chopped sphagnum, I water them no more than paphios. I also have a big plant that is in rock wool and develops very well there.
    Of course hybrids are more hardy than botanical species.
    I also feel the leave base of the plant should be clear ( no sphagnum clogging) a little ventilation does no harm ( meaning it helps) :)
     
  3. leeflea

    leeflea New Member

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    Location:
    N.E. MS
    Bonjour et merci d'avoir répondu ...as is evident from my experience with the species obviously for me at least I should stick to the bark media. It seems overnight, almost, it started going downhill. So, if this one dies, I'll evaluate it to see what I did incorrectly, augment it, learn from it and move on and stick to with what I know and that's catts and their alliance. Although this isn't the species for some reason, phrags and paphs are difficult for me.
    Again, thank you for being kind enough to respond.
    Lee
     
  4. emuehlbauer

    emuehlbauer New Member

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    Location:
    Rego Park, Queens, NY
    Phrags are generally easy....but they do have their cranky individuals. The advice to keep phrags sitting in saucers of water is great, for most growers...but not all. If your humidity is high, it's not a good idea. Greenhouse growers do not grow their phrags with "wet feet". Since I grow in the house, on windowsills, I use the saucer technique with great success. I still water several times a week, as all water is usually gone the day after. They are also tolerant of really crappy media. I've repotted some phrags after 4 years....no media left, just wet smelly muck. And the roots are great. But phrags don't seem to have much middle ground. They are either unkillable, or they die easily. I have also found that phrag hybrids should really get a lot of fertilizer. I always skimped on it, thinking they were so sensitive...but the hybrids, and species such as longifolium, sargentianum, etc, are very fertilizer tolerant and really need quite a bit. But besseae does well with a much lighter fertilizer regime...and less light also.
     
    Lisa N., orchidnut57 and Marni like this.