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LEDs for orchids

Discussion in 'Growing Areas' started by Chris, Oct 21, 2010.

  1. Chris

    Chris New Member

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    *DISCLAIMER* This project uses exposed 112VAC. I am NOT responsible for any boneheaded mistakes you make with live electricity.

    So I decided to make this a separate thread from my environmental chamber.

    I've seen in the past where orchid folks have mentioned the using of newfangled LED fixtures from the aquarium hobby to grow orchids. Most balked at the price (which is astronomical at around a grand or so for a high end fixture). I've never heard of anyone using LED lighting for orchids.

    So, instead of balking, I decided to build a fixture from scratch.

    The fundamentals of LED fixtures are:

    -The emitters themselves
    -The stars/pads they are mounted on
    -A DC power supply capable of delivering enough volts for each emitter's draw
    -A "driver" or constant current/current limiting device. This can be as simple as a correctly size resistor or, most commonly, a made-for-LED driver capable of delivering the correct or desired current to the emitters.
    -A passive or active heatsink to draw/dissipate heat from the emitters.
    -Optics. Emitters are 180 degree spread. Optics are necessary to focus and direct the light.

    The emitters need to be wired in series, as does the resistor/driver. The wiring will need to be soldered to the star/pad contacts using rosin core lead bearing solder.

    For emitters I went with CREE 3watt high power XP-G LEDs. I bought them pre-mounted to stars. The CREE XP-G is what is found in the newest, highest end reef aquarium fixtures. It has a very white color temperature and tremendous amounts of PAR (photosynthetically active radiation), making it appropriate for plants and corals alike.

    For optics I went with 40 degree lenses compatible with the XP-G emitters. This a relatively narrow focused beam, since I am working with a small number of emitters (6) and a relatively small surface area (10 gallon vertical).

    For a power supply I'm using a 24 Volt 6.5 amp Potrans PSU.

    For now I am simply using a 10 ohm 10 watt resistor as the driver, however this only delivers ~450 mA to the LEDs, and they are capable of running up to 1000 mA, so I will be replacing the resistor with a Buckpuck LED driver capable of delivering the 1000 mA.

    I ordered an extruded aluminum heatsink appropriately sized for the top of my tank, some rubber feet for it. I put arctic alumina thermal compound under the stars, and attached them to the heatsink using a single 6/32 screw (this meant I had to drill and tap the aluminum heatsink). The wiring is done with 18 gauge copper wire.
    IMG_4498.jpg IMG_4497.jpg IMG_4496.jpg IMG_4495.jpg
     
  2. Chris

    Chris New Member

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    Oh, and in case you are wondering, yeah, they are MF'ing bright.
     
  3. Candace

    Candace Kept Woman Supporting Member

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    Looks cool. Must admit whilst semi-reading your posting, my brain farted and I pulled a Homer Simpson. Gaaaaahhhh. So, I don't necessarily "get it". But, cool anyway.
     
  4. Dale

    Dale New Member

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    "my brain farted and I pulled a Homer Simpson"

    TMI
     
  5. AHAB

    AHAB New Member

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    If possible:
    Estimate of electrical cost per hour or year?
    Expected lifetime in that environment?
    Thanks,
    Jim
     
  6. Chris

    Chris New Member

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    Jim, no idea on the lifetime, should be fairly long (years).

    The consumption is 3.25 volts per LED x 6 LEDs. Assuming a 1000 mA driver, that's a 19.5 watt fixture.
     
  7. Forrest

    Forrest Really Neat

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    That is very cool Chris. I am anxious to see how well things bloom for you with these.
     
  8. Chris

    Chris New Member

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    Thanks Forrest,

    I forgot to mention, the fixture cost me right around $100 to build.
     
  9. Ray

    Ray Orchid Iconoclast Supporting Member

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    There is a lot of horticultural LED lighting out there, but they all seem to rely on mixing red and blue LED's to approximate the PAR spectrum. Chris, on the other hand, went with a "phosphor-type" LED that uses a blue or UV LED to activate a white-light producing phosphor (sort-of like a fluorescent tube), and after some digging, it looks like he's nailed the spectrum with those LED's pretty well.

    The XP-G has a "typical" color temp of 6000°K, which would very closely match the blue/red ratio of the sun (which is 6300°-6500°, depending on the author). The specs say it can range from 5000° to 10,000°, so it'll be interesting to see how they work out, practically.

    The life is rated at 50,000 hours (almost 10 years @ 14 hrs/day) at 350 mA, the recommended driving current. The output is 132 lumens per watt, so at the recommended 3V, 350 mA, we're looking at 139 lumens output per LED, or at Chris' 1000 mA, 396 lumens x 6 = 2376 lumens total. By comparison, a 24W 2-foot HO T5 bulb is rated at about 2000 lumens (83 lumerns/W).
     
  10. Dale

    Dale New Member

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    I have a headache now.
     
  11. Chris

    Chris New Member

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    Thanks Ray, great post.
     
  12. Alexis

    Alexis New Member

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    Me, too. Wouldn't Chris and Ray be a gas together at a party? :evil:

    :D
     
  13. Jon

    Jon Mmmm... bulbophyllum...

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    Good post, Ray. I'm likely going to transition a number of plants to an indoor setup, and LED lighting seems to make the most sense based on Chris's setup and your analysis.
     
  14. Dale

    Dale New Member

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    "Wouldn't Chris and Ray be a gas together at a party?"

    No. I don't go to those kinds of parties.
     
  15. Binky

    Binky Fries anyone?

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    Same here. I read this stuff and my head hertz.
     
  16. Dale

    Dale New Member

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    :D
     
  17. Candace

    Candace Kept Woman Supporting Member

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    It's the brain farts.
     
  18. AHAB

    AHAB New Member

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    Question:
    Since the heat portion of light could wholly or partly causing burning of our leaves, can we use more and brighter LED light to provide more PAR and more growth?
     
  19. Ray

    Ray Orchid Iconoclast Supporting Member

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    Don't forget that it's not necessarily heat of the source that burns plant tissues, it could be the inability to dissipate the heat created when the light itself hits the tissues.

    I am sure you could burn plants with excessive illumination from LED's.
     
  20. Ray

    Ray Orchid Iconoclast Supporting Member

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    I'm sorry Dale. Let's try this.

    Damn! That's bright, Chris.