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First time flasking

Discussion in 'Orchid Culture' started by Selmo, Feb 27, 2019.

  1. Selmo

    Selmo Active Member

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    49C9CCE1-7E16-4D21-9AE4-6F116705F6A3.jpeg 4981D436-F163-4EA0-9FE5-4D35ADA198E8.jpeg First time to trying to grow orchids this way. Back in July our Neofinetia falcata blessed us with 15 seed pods. It took about 60-75 days for the pods to ripen and start to fall off. A few had spilt open but most had not. We put the pods in a sandwich bag with a paper towel, in the fridge unto we flasked them at the beginning of the year. It took about 15 days for the seeds to start to swell into little green spheres (second photo). At about 45 days old, they starting to grow little points on top of the spheres (first photo).
     
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  2. Marni

    Marni Well-Known Member Staff Member Supporting Member

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    You are off to a good start!
     
  3. Selmo

    Selmo Active Member

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    Thank you, Marni
    Are the days (number of) right? 60 days to ripe pod, 15 days to germinate. Seems quick, or is this normal for Neofinetia.
     
  4. Marni

    Marni Well-Known Member Staff Member Supporting Member

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    It does seem a bit quick for the maturation. I've had them split at 153, so that is ripe. Yours was at less than half the time. A "general rule" is to wait at least to 2/3 the way to maturity. Some say at 1/2. There are many variables that an change that. What matters is that it germinated. The Neofinetia I have sown have been very quick to start to green up, so your time seems in line with that.
     
  5. Selmo

    Selmo Active Member

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    F3A877A7-B780-4945-A7C7-602D17218299.jpeg Thank you again, Marni. There where two different groups of pods. The early group matured in about 60-65 days. The second (later) group took longer to mature, maybe 20-25 days more. Most of the pods turned yellow, then brown and fell off. A few of them spilt then, but most of them spilt after we stored them in the fridge. But like you said, all that matters is that they did germinate. Thank you agian
     
  6. Marni

    Marni Well-Known Member Staff Member Supporting Member

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    If you can sow dry seed, rather than put them in the frig, I would store them in a clean, dry filter paper at room temperature to let them mature and dry. The problem with the frig is that it can lead to rot.
     
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  7. Selmo

    Selmo Active Member

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    F895A8BE-83D3-4B0E-A350-58DB69DD44E0.jpeg Here is 75 days. The sphere shaped seeds are starting to look more like rain drops (round at one end and pointed at the other)and few are showing rabbit ears or ‘V’ shaped growths on top. Now maybe they will start to look more like plants.
     
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  8. Marni

    Marni Well-Known Member Staff Member Supporting Member

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    Looking good!
     
  9. Selmo

    Selmo Active Member

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    Thank you for words of encouragement, Marni. Do the protocorms mature at different rates in different jars. We have seven jars of these and some jars seem to be slower than others. Some jars seem to have many ‘rabbit ears’ and some few or none yet. Is this common to have jars maturing at different rates.
     
  10. naoki

    naoki Well-Known Member

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    Nice! Did it set fruits by itself?
     
  11. Marni

    Marni Well-Known Member Staff Member Supporting Member

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    Yes, some seed grows faster than others. From flask to flask may vary if the medium is different or light or temperature. When they start piling up on one another, it is time to move them to the next step. You will spread them out so they are all in contact with the medium and there is some space for them to grow.
     
  12. Selmo

    Selmo Active Member

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    Yes, Naomi it did set fruit by its self. Don’t know exactly what pollenated it, saw some bees around, but believe it was done after dark.

    Can use the same kind of agar ( P-668) or should I use a different type, or add something to that agar. Thanks again for the advice
     
  13. Marni

    Marni Well-Known Member Staff Member Supporting Member

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    A quick clarification of terms: P668 isn't agar, it is medium that contains agar. Agar is the gelling agent used so the medium isn't a liquid. The medium is composed of a variety of nutrients that feed the seedlings.

    That said, P668 will work well for Neofinetia. You can use it at full strength. Add some banana, I've used 30 grams of fresh ripe banana, with good results. People frequently use a 1/2 strength concentration for sowing. If that is the case and you have more empty flasks of the medium you used to sow it, you could use that instead for the next stage which is usually called a spread.
     
  14. Selmo

    Selmo Active Member

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    Sorry Naoki, hate spellcheck
     
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  15. Selmo

    Selmo Active Member

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    ACDBF3FE-8211-40D4-96F0-71B7E67745A1.jpeg 125 days, took the two jars that where full of protocorms and moved the most advanced ones in new jars. Put 20 of the biggest ones in each jar. Made three. Been one week, no molds so far
     
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  16. Marni

    Marni Well-Known Member Staff Member Supporting Member

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    Looking good!
     
  17. DarleneJay

    DarleneJay Well-Known Member

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    This is a great thread. Thanks for sharing you progress. Good luck!
     
  18. Selmo

    Selmo Active Member

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    4172BA67-48E7-4536-8716-7DB97FBD33A4.jpeg 134765D1-E505-4DE3-944E-8AEAB29161E3.jpeg J EA17353A-3A3D-47B8-863B-502E8501D7FA.jpeg Well, it would be 180 days now. But the mold got us. About the end of May (about 145 days) mold took the first jar (second photo) and then the other two jars about a week later (last photo).
    This has been an exceptional learning experience, that I will try again. We have some hybrid cattleya crosses that we made back in January and February that the pods are coming along nicely. Need to perfect our technique a little, by bettering the filtration on our chamber and being more sterile with our process.
    Thank you all who helped with advice and encouragement during this project.
    Oh, by the way, the Neofinetia is in bloom and has at least 6 pods so far, on it now (first photo). So, maybe this project is not over yet.
     
  19. Selmo

    Selmo Active Member

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    B09EA55E-B3D7-49C9-B4E0-3F59AC56837A.jpeg B1367687-A399-4A6E-99DC-F2EFA92AAABA.jpeg Have a question about a couple of the jars. Mold did not doom them but something else did. I believe it was over heating and that they got cooked. They were under artificial light (some LEDs and florescence) and the temperature did get to 88F a few times. Would this be enough to cook them? Or did something else happen? They were progressing along with other jars but after about 100 days or so they started to decline slowly. They started to turn grayish and translucent. All the protocorms are touching the medium. Did they run out of energy/nutrition from the medium or were they unable to absorb any nutrients from it?
    The first photo is from May 26 (day 143) and the second photo is from June 28 (day175) hope you can see the color change. Any ideas to what caused this?
     
  20. Marni

    Marni Well-Known Member Staff Member Supporting Member

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    What cross is this? Overheating will kill the protocorms. I'm used to seeing more of a tan or straw color with overheating, but I don't see much difference between the first and 2nd image. If the heat was from the lights, two things you can do. You can set the lights on a thermostat that turns off as the temperature rises or run the lights at night when the room might be cooler. They don't need huge amounts of light. It is more to let them know day from night. I've found that without fruit in the medium, they can run out of steam after about 6 months.