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Cycnoches chlorochilon x Cycnodes Jumbo Mickey

Discussion in 'Orchid Hybrids' started by tenman, Jan 17, 2011.

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  1. tenman

    tenman Well-Known Member

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    I think this is one I got at the WOC two years ago. It has finally gotten big enough to bloom - with two spikes. I was surprised that it has no fragrance given its background, but the color is what I was looking for - very much a clear yellow Cycnodes Wine Delight-type flower.
    chloroxjumbomickeytwo0111.jpg
     
  2. Marni

    Marni Well-Known Member Staff Member Supporting Member

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    It is a beautiful color. After killing several cycnoches over the years of my orchid growing life I gave up on them. How are you growing this?
     
  3. tenman

    tenman Well-Known Member

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    Intermediate to warm with copious water during growth and as much light as I have. When the leaves start to drop, usually in Sept/Oct, after blooming (note the irony - everything ran behind in 2010), no water at all until new growth shows 1"+ roots in the spring (or, in 2010, in July). They're in plastic pots with a moisture-retentive medium, similar to that I use for bulbos.

    Caveat: I still lose some of them. If I water at all during dormancy, they rot. If I don't, one or two just shrivel up and die (even a little water just makes them rot even if they're shriveling). Lycastes do the same for me. I still struggle with both because I like them so much.
     
  4. Marni

    Marni Well-Known Member Staff Member Supporting Member

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    Thanks. Which lycastes give you trouble?
     
  5. tenman

    tenman Well-Known Member

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    Well, I have a Jackpot x Shoalhaven now on the way out and have lost most of the ones in the Shoalhaven/Koolena lines, lost my good Jackpot, have lost four skinneris, gave up entirely on aromatica/cruenta (which is ok as I don't really like them anyway) and my others waver between thriving one year and trying to die the next (Queen Elizabeth bloomed with one puny flower this past year after 15 years of trying to die on me). Some of them I know don't require rest or at least a long one, and some do (lost the deppei v. punctatissima but got another division and it's still alive so far). I have solicited and followed advice from as many good lycaste growers as I know, but somehow no matter what I try, nothing works consistently. I do have two larger plants about to open flowers, one a 7.25" light pink angulocaste and one a snow-white John Ezzy, but they are exceptions to the rule (and the angulocaste goes up and down from year to year). I'm not looking to grow hundreds; I'd be happy with a dozen nice ones in assorted colors that did well. Just when one seems to be doing well, the bulbs start to rot or it withers and dies. I'm guessing I'm just cursed.
     
  6. Marni

    Marni Well-Known Member Staff Member Supporting Member

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    If you can grow trichopilias, you probably aren't cursed.;)

    How were you growing Jackpot / skinneri? I don't give either of them a dry rest. Potting mix, light, fertilizer?
     
  7. tenman

    tenman Well-Known Member

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    I've tried a variety of mixes through the years, none seem to make any difference; bark-based, chc-based, sphag-based, including perlite, treefern, peat, etc.. In shallow pots (or regular with styro peanuts in th bottom), I use a phalaenopsis or other moisture-retentive, easy draining mix. I give them as much light as I have, and fertilize with every other watering or so with MI formula, and on the recommendation of some other growers, the last few years I throw in some orchid-formula osmocote in the mix, as I do for the catasetinae as well.
     
  8. Marni

    Marni Well-Known Member Staff Member Supporting Member

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    Not that you specifically asked for my opinion, but I'll give it anyway since you clearly want to grow these and I frequently give my opinion whether it is wanted or not.

    I use relatively small pots and frequently grow them in net pots (either hanging or on the bench). If it is a smaller plant/division or seedling, I will frequently grow it in a net pot set inside a plastic pot. If I wanted to use a larger pot, I would put an inverted net pot in the bottom to keep the center from staying soggy. I don't think it is a shallow rooted plant and I don't use styrofoam; that gives you two sets of media, one stays wet and the other stays dry. I find better drainage with just one type of media. The plants are almost dry before I water them. Some times I use my regular bark mix (6 parts sifted 1/8-1/4” bark, 4 parts coarse perlite or pumice, 1.5 parts (1-2parts) medium tree fern fiber, 1 part charcoal horticultural grade) but usually I use a terrestrial mix (3 parts washed and sifted 1/8-” fir bark, 5 parts pumice or perlite, 3.5 parts well washed coir (coco peat), 1.5 parts 1/2” lava rock, 1 part 1/4” horticultural charcoal).

    I have RO water and use the MSU fertilizer with a bit of some other random brand thrown in for good measure. I fertilize with 200ppm total fertilizer most of the year at every watering and 150 ppm in the winter, again at every watering. The lycastes that do get a dry rest (generally, those that have spines on the old pseudobulbs) don't get much water and therefore little to no fertilizer. I have considered putting 6 month nutricote (I never use osmocote brand) in the spring, but haven't really tested that out.

    I find that the ones hanging up do very well. Don't know if it is the air flow or the brighter light. I bloom cattleyas with just a bit more light than the lycastes, but I may not be anywhere as bright as other cattleya growers. The potted lycastes are next to the south wall.

    Here are 2 images of a first bloom seedling of Lycaste skinneri. It was repotted last Juyl and is growing in a bark mix in a 3" net pot that was set inside a 3" plastic pot. Once the flowers open a bit more I will photograph and remove pollen and repot it to the next sized basket so that the plant can continue to grow.
    lyc.roots.plant.jpg lyc.roots.jpg
     
  9. tenman

    tenman Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the input; I always appreciate hearing from other growers. I'll have to re-evaluate (again!) my growing of these; it can't hurt to try something different for a while. They're just so beautiful it's hard to give up on them.