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Confirm correct procedure

Discussion in 'Issues, Disease and Pests' started by Rachele, Feb 24, 2021.

  1. Rachele

    Rachele New Member

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    I bought this orchid 2/3 weeks ago.
    Now, as you can see the flowers are starting to dry up. When they have all fallen off, I have to wait for it to make new shoots without stressing the plant right?
    The basic parameters for it to live are constant humidity/temperature and no direct light, as I read online.
    For watering should I water the roots from the bottom or from the top?

    this is not my first experience with orchids but I’d like to learn how to make them live as long as possible
    :)
     

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  2. Photosynthetic

    Photosynthetic New Member

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    Rachele,

    While you wait for one of the pros on this board to respond, I would suggest the following.

    1. Your Phalaenopsis looks very vigorous, but I wonder if the flower drop is caused by the change in conditions from the grower's location to yours. That is, they may be dropping prematurely. Don't worry about it, as it shouldn't harm the plant.

    2. My recommendation is to cut off the flower spikes when all the flowers have dropped. That allows the plant to go into vegetative growth rather than trying to produce secondary flower spikes from the old spike. Other growers disagree, so take your choice.

    3. Phals can tolerate direct light, just not hot sun. If you keep it too dark it won't bloom again. A North or East-facing window should be fine.

    4. Water from the top, drenching the media thoroughly, but do it in the morning so the crown and leaf axils can dry out before night. Standing water in the crown and axils can lead to rot, which is a great way to kill your plant. I can't tell if your plant is in bark or sphagnum, but if it is sphagnum, don't let it stay soggy as that will cause root rot. Bark is safer, in my opinion, and I take all my Phals that come in sphagnum out after blooming ends and pot them into bark mix. Again, other growers will disagree.
     
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  3. Rachele

    Rachele New Member

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    Hello,
    I really thank you for these useful information!
    I'll consider them in any case.
     
  4. Ray

    Ray Orchid Iconoclast Supporting Member

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    Location:
    Oak Island NC
    I'll add a couple of things, referring to "Photo's" numbered responses.

    1. Nice looking plant, but the loss of flowers seems to be random, not from the bottom of the spike up (suggesting normal senescence), so that makes me thing it needs more water.

    2. Cutting the old inflorescences is a matter of choice. As long as it is green, it is still photosynthesizing, but if you don't like the look, it's no issue removing them. I recommend against cutting them partially back, as that can simulate breakage, stimulating the plant to grow branches as an effort to reproduce and carry on its genetics.

    3. Phals are actually "deep shade" plants and will bloom their best of grown that way. They can tolerate bright, indirect light, but will not do as well. One thing to consider is that moving a plant that has been grown brighter into less light may result in them taking a year off from blooming while the physiology adjusts to the new conditions.

    4. Potting medium selection depends upon the needs of the plant and your growing conditions and watering habits. Phals prefer constantly moist, but very airy conditions around the roots. The trick is finding a potting medium that provides that without risking suffocating the roots by holding water between the particles.
     
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  5. Rachele

    Rachele New Member

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    Hello Ray,
    so i'm going to monitor with more attention the need of water;
    for the cut of the old inflorescences then i'll decide what to do, therefore thanks for the explanations.